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WOODWORKING MEASURING TAPE
11 tips for buying the right measuring tape
No measuring tape is right for everyone, but here's a list of
the top 11 features that I think are essential in a measuring tape you are going to use daily. These features will improve your
woodworking accuracy and make it more enjoyable...
- LENGTH: don't buy any measuring tapes longer than 16', after all the
longest wood you typically find on the market is 16' and the
longest sheet material is only 8'. Longer tapes are heavy and
weigh your pants down for no reason. Six foot tapes are useless
for most applications, and typically break pretty easily, but
anything between 10' and 16' is great.
- WIDTH: It should be 3/4" in width for the standard 16' tape..
1/2" is too flimsy and bends and breaks, 1" is too
heavy for nothing.
- If you are occasionally installing trim like baseboard or
casing, or putting up kitchen cabinets and working around room
dimensions, then consider a second tape of 25' that is suitable
for those applications, but then only bring it out when the
job requires the extra length. On a 25' tape a 1" width
is a benefit because when the tape is extended it is more likely
to hold its line.
- CASE BODY:I prefer a slightly larger tape "body" with a partial
rubber coating rather than the slim line all metal versions.
I find the former easier for one handed gripping and when you
drop it on the floor (which happens frequently at least for
me!), it bounces better. Before buying, test the fit. Everyone
has a different hand size so there is no one perfect answer,
or size.
- TAPE FROG: Look for a "frog" or metal tab at the front end
of the tape that has TWO rivets holding it in place... cheap
measuring tapes use only ONE rivet and break after only a few
days of use.... VERY IMPORTANT!
- UNIT OF MEASURE: Choose a tape that is EITHER metric (mm) OR imperial (inches),
but NOT both. You are always alternating between reading from
the top edge of the tape or reading from the bottom edge of
the tape. Unless you are very agile about converting inches
to mm's and back, it is easier if BOTH sides of the tape are
using the same units.
- QUALITY OF THE TAPE: Some tapes that are designed for say, house framers, will
have a ruler that is epoxy or Mylar™ coated to prevent
rusting of the metal tape. This is not particularly essential
to a shop based woodworker, but does imply a better quality.
- TEST THE RECOIL MECHANISM: Pull the measuring tape entirely from the housing (or at least
most of the way) and test the recoil mechanism. Cheap tapes
sputter and get sluggish on retracting or don't let you extend
the full 16' length. Quality tapes extend and retract smoothly
from 1" to 16'.
- CHECK OUT THE BELT CLIP: Does the screw that holds it in place
seem well secured to the body of the measuring tape. If the
screws is anchored into a cheap plastic case, I can guarantee
you that it will be stripped in short order leaving you with
no belt clip.
- LOCK BUTTON: At the same time that you test the recoil mechanism, check
the locking button. Lock the tape position, and pull on the
tape. If the blade seems solid then its a good choice, if the
button disengages or the blade slips you may want to find a
better model.
- COST: and lastly... expect to pay $20. for a good tape measure,
or at least get a $20. tape on sale for $10 (even better). It
is the one tool you are guaranteed to use EVERY day in the shop,
so consider it an investment in quality.
- AND A FEW EXTRA BELLS AND WHISTLES:
Manufacturers are forever looking for ways to improve conventional tools and measuring tapes are no different... you can get tapes today that have a holder for your pencil, a magnetic back, a scratch pad to record numbers (personally I think this is a great feature) and even build-in levels and laser lights .. what's next :)
More Information
Woodworking
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