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Buy The Best Scroll Saw, page 3
Telling you what's the best scroll saw is sort of like telling you what you will like to eat. Some like rolo ice cream (my favourite) and some like chili peppers? Which are you?
Buying a scroll saw is somewhat the same discussion. Some woodworkers have plans to make 2,000 cut fretwork clocks as their claim to fame, others have plans to buy a cheap scroll saw to cut small toys for their grandchildren, and then spend the money saved on a trip to the far south. No one flavour fits everyone's list of requirements.
So which are you? Remember my scroll saw is probably worth $200 and Cindy's maybe 5 times more than that. But I put 5 hours on it in one month and Cindy probably works for 5 hours per day on her scroll saw.
I'll try here to give you a list of features of the very best scroll saws and some dialogue on whether it is frivolous or important depending on what you expect to do! I have tried somewhat to put them in the order in which I think is most important, but again that depend on your woodworking agenda. Enjoy!
What are the top 8 features of the best scroll saw?
- Throat Size: All scroll saws are labeled by their throat size. This is the distance from the front of the blade to the inside back of the arms.
It represents the largest distance you would be able to cut front to back without rotating your wood.
The most common sizes are in the range of 16-20" with the largest topping out at 30". In the tool ads you'll see the notation as '20 scroll saw' or '30 scroll saw' and the number is referring to the throat size.
If you intend to cut small Christmas ornaments, toys or doll house furniture like in the picture above, then the size is somewhat irrelevant, but if you envision large 1,000 piece puzzles or portraits then it will be important to have a larger throat capacity.
- Switch Location: There are MANY occasions where the panel you are working on is not entirely balanced on the table and you are being somewhat of a contortionist to hold your wood in place and swat for the OFF button at the same time. Envision these situations. See if it will be easy to turn the scroll saw on and off in these awkward moments.
While you're at it, if it is a variable speed scroll saw (VS), does the dial have markings to indicate the speeds. It's nice to know that today, if cutting 1/4" oak is working perfectly at 1,000 strokes per minute (spm) that you can use that as the right speed the next time you repeat a similar operation. Without a gauge it is hard to monitor and track your successes.
- Blade Clamping System: If your passion is fretwork with literally thousands of interior holes THE most important feature will be how fast you can release the blade tension, release the blade clamp, thread the blade through the pilot hole in the wood and then re-attach the blade. Try it in the store! You'll know if you like it! That sounds like you are buying a hamburger :)
Does the blade holder accept pinned or flat blades or does it have an adapter or "quick change head" so the scroll saw can handle both styles? For small intricate holes you MUST be able to use flat-ended blades.
Today all high and medium end scrollsaws use flat-ended blades and only the very cheap scroll saws still use the pin-ended blades, but on the used machine market you have to be a little more careful about what you buy.
- Tension Adjustment: Going along with the story above, is the tension lever readily accessible? Is it ON or OFF or does it have one handed variability. On scroll saws like the Dewalt their tension lever has a number of tension positions so like the speed of the motor you can dial in the ideal tension, take note of the position and then repeat it the next time you use the same blade.
Less sophisticated scroll saws have an independent thumb screw to reduce or increase the pressure on the blade clamps and a separate lever that closes and opens the jaws. That means that every time you change blades and blade thicknesses you must adjust the thumb screw. This isn't a big deal if you always use the same blade, or only changing the blades occasionally.
If you are doing a lot of portraiture and rotating between spiral blades and flats it may be a big annoyance. Again try various blades in the clamping system to see how effective and easy the action is to anchor various types and sizes of scroll saw blades.
- Motor: What size is it? The higher the amperage the more power it will have. Again if you intend to cut only small ornamental pieces then power isn't really an issue but if you want to stack cut purpleheart then power certainly is important.
Is the motor variable speed or only one speed? Slower speeds great for newbies into scrollsawing giving more control and less fear. Typically the best scroll saw will run from 400 to 1800 strokes per minute.
The ability to change speeds will also be important if you see yourself experimenting with a new exotic wood for scroll saw.... or metal or plexiglas or even paper. Each material has its own optimum speed, where you can create a clean line.
- Scroll Saw Table: Size? Does the design of the table optimize the space around the machine, especially if you are rotating large panels of wood around the blade.
Does the table tilt for angle cuts in BOTH directions or does the entire upper arm tilt instead as with the new Excalibur 21. In the latter case the table remains rigid and the saw-arm moves. Not a bad thought as you are now ALWAYS working parallel to the floor. Makes you feel a little less drunk!
Is the table nicely machined, and smooth so wood can easily be rotated during cutting. Has it been treated with something to prevent rusting? If it has obvious pits in the surface its a pretty good indicator that the table is not of the best quality.
Does the table have a replaceable insert that surround the blade? If so then as it gets worn it can be replaced with one you have cut on the saw or one that has a tighter fit for particularly small pieces.
- Dust Blower: Most, maybe all of the best scroll saws have a long metal or plastic arm that extends over the front, with a nozzle on the end to blow shavings away from the cut line. The better ones are made with a flexible metal tube that can be curved and positioned for best performance. The cheap ones are plastic tubes that have to be held where YOU want them to be with a wire or tie wrap.
Is there an under table vacuum port that allows you to hook up a dust collector hose? This is particularly beneficial if you see yourself taking scrollsawing more seriously and plan to create LOTs of dust.
- Warranty: How long and on what? Is the warranty on the entire tool or just the metal parts and not the electronics or motor?
Well I think that just about covers all the features of the best scroll saws, at least what comes to mind at this stage... if I've missed something then let me know.
Take this shopping list into the store when you go shopping and that way you won't forget to check out a particular feature of the ones you are considering.
This next article will be a relatively short one on how to access the quality of a saw if you get into a store that will let you play.. OR you have the opportunity to buy a used scroll saw... keep reading..
More Information
Learn more, read our other articles and info about scroll saws and just about anything on the topic of hobby woodworking.
Scroll Saw Reviews-Comparisons of various brands and comments on their good and bad features, as well as links to their parts manuals
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